Several weeks ago I posted on options for mounting iPhone on your mountain bike. Today I wanted to add an update based on my personal experience with my iPhone 6 Plus using the Tigra Sports BikeConsole bike mount.
After 5 weeks of using the bike mount I am overall pleased with it – it does provide a relatively good way to attach your iPhone 6 Plus to your bike. This (as usual) will allow you to use various applications for tracking your exercise and mapping your bike routes. Having said that, there are also some negatives / or inconveniences with using the Tigra BikeConsole
- you have to remove any other case you have on your phone during your normal use as the BikeConsole expects that you have a bare phone to be encased in it.
- after several weeks of bike rides it appears that the mount has loosened as a result the BikeConsole tends to tip (rotate down) on my handlebars – i.e. you cannot easily see the screen – the screen / phone tilts and you have to rotate the whole assembly back into position
- for some reason the screen cover of the BikeConsole is matted which somewhat reduces visibility of the screen and you have to increase the display intensity for visibility which in turn causes battery to drain faster
Even with these small issues, I still think the Tigra Sport BikeConsole is a good option for your iPhone on your mountain bike. It protects the phone and allows for its use while on the tracks.
Here are the options you could consider from Tigra Sport based on which iPhone you have:
Finally, here is another review of the BikeConsole – check it out…!
Mountain Biking How To — How to select Mountain Bike components
When you read the specs of the mountain bikes in the local professional shop on the web sites of your favorite brands I am sure you are often trying to decipher the meaning behind the ratios in the Front Derailleur, the wheel size, of suspension / front fork travel size and/or mechanical spring vs air spring implementation….So here I go with some clarifications you can hopefully use in your selection process
- Gears: So what is that front derailleur all about? Well in general the more recent models of mountain bikes come with either 2×10 or 3×10 gearing. What is the difference? Well it is all about how many rings do you have up front (see photo below – which in the case of the photo – my bike is 3×10) and how many in the rear. here you see the photo of 3×10 – 3 chainrings upfront and 10 in the rear This setup essentially defines how many gears you would have total – with the 3×10 providing for a wider range and several more gears in the middle of that spread. The 2×10 offers lighter weight, faster movement of increments in gearing – i.e. faster shifting up and down. All in all the 2×10 option has started to appear on increasing number of bikes – it offers also lower cost and in reality meets the needs of over 50% of riders.
- Wheel size selection: 29-inch vs. 27.5-inch vs 26-inch…? The (almost) age old question – which bike with what wheels I should buy? The reality – they all have plus and minus valuation points. Smaller wheels are more maneuverable – but large wheel offer more comfort and speed…..So as usual – novel idea – take a test ride..!
- Front shock / fork: mechanical or air spring implementation. You will be surprised how many biking enthusiasts have no idea what their shock is and what should they be looking for. The bad news is that based on which bike model select many of the components will come with the specific bike (per how the manufacturer has outfitted the bike / model). If you want to replace the fork for example, that will cost you dearly. So my advice – look for more expensive model – the tier above your current selection and then look for end of the model year discounts!
So with those advice in mind – go on and look for a bike…
Please keep in mind – it is best for you to test ride the bike! No spec descriptions will replace the in-person on the pedals experience!
Mountain Biking How To — How to ride on gravel trails
I have been on rides across many parts of the US, Asia, and Eastern Europe. Given my experience – conditions in the US Southwest are somewhat unique – specifically they are unique in the fact that the trails are often made of relatively loose gravel. Many of the trails in Texas for example are covered with crushed lime stone and other rocks – and overall represent a relatively tricky surface for many beginners and less experienced riders. After several recent bike rides with my family, I decided to post this “HOW TO” summary to provide some guidance at least based on my experience of riding in those conditions for the last 5-6 years. So here we go:
- As you start on the ride, you need to relax and try not to tense your body. Being anxious you would tend to tighten your shoulders, elbows and arms and as you start riding the vibrations of the track will translate into your tense body and cause an early fatigue and potentially discomfort.
- Being tense will also potentially bring to less ability to maneuver fast along the track and may even cause you to lose control of your bike in some cases
- Focus on steering not only with your hands but also with your overall body especially with your hips. You may want to practice this first on a relatively flat surface — I suggest you do that around your house – on a safe street practice maneuvers where you use your body and hips to direct the bike.
- Make sure you look ahead on the trails and time the use of brakes. More so, please apply brakes OFTEN and in a GENTLE manner — i.e. control your speed on a frequent basis rather than via sudden stops. WHY? You will prevent going over the handlebars! Trust me – I have done that on more than one occasion as I learned to control my bike. The brake system on new mountain bikes – with hydraulic brakes – is so efficient in translating force of brake initiation to braking that you get a braking action very fast and that combined with the momentum of a fast moving bike will cause you to go over the handlebars…..So let’s avoid that by figuring out the physics of the movement – i.e. reduce speed by braking often and with a slight touch.
- Stay high on your bike and try to stand up above the saddle often especially when going over a series of larger rocks – that will reduce the likelihood of busting your tires and potentially also flipping off the bike.
All in all biking on gravel trails is not tough once you get used to it. If you pay attention to the pointers above and enjoy the rides!
Yesterday my family and I finally decided to brave the long drive and head out to Colorado Bend State Park. The weather was great – mid 70s F, sunny, light breeze….all in all really perfect weather for a bike ride. So we loaded the bikes on the SUV, loaded plenty of water in bike bottles and in the cooler and started off towards the park.
Getting to the park from Austin entails two options – you can either go the North route – via 183 or the South route via Marble Falls, Burnett, and eventually Lampasas.
On the way to the park we decided 183 may be the faster route – well that was a mistake. 183 is a mess – unless you use the toll road version – 183A – which we did not and paid dearly for that in terms of wasted time. Took us 3 hours to get to the park – while on the way back it was the expected 2 hours – but we went via 281 and 71 via Burnett and Marble Falls
Once we got to the park – we signed in relief – the place is beautiful, the trails are good and in different difficulty level – here is the map of the park which includes the biking trails – which in aggregate amount to about 30miles of varying degree of difficulty
The river trail is very scenic and very much an easy beginners level trail to use. We started on that one as a way to get our daughter in the groove of things. The trail was nice – about 3.5miles in one direction. Once you reach the intersection of Old Gorman Road and the River Trail you have the option to head back the same way, or take Old Gorman Road towards Cedar Chopper Loop. Please see map above. Based on the various loops and roads you can actually construct a pretty long bike ride. We ended up on a 2 hour ride which was more than enough to get us exhausted and ready to head to dinner by the time we were done – which was around 6pm.
Overall the experience was great. Please see the album with photos below…
Last Fall I had the opportunity to see one of the global Formula-1 races — this one held in Austin, Texas. Turns out Austin is home to the only F1 track in the US – and every year in November (I think it is usually about that time) – a bunch of advanced automotive fans converge in the city to see the latest in super car racing.
The 2014 race was based on 6-cylinder gasoline engines with surprisingly SMALL displacement – only 1.6-litter volume (which is about 1/2 of my car’s engine displacement) but between the gasoline engine and the electric assist motors, the 2014 F-1 race cars were achieving in the range of 780-hp !!!
Turns out this technology — the electric assist motors — is now finding its way into bicycles – specifically electric bicycles. The UK based and manufacturing in the UK company Brompton is leveraging partnership with F-1 engineers to design and produce pedal assisted electric bikes.
Electric bikes are no new news for sure. You can see below statistics of the sales of those in several key regions:
Find more statistics at Statista;
As you can see China specifically has huge sales of electric bikes – but from my personal experience (having lived in China for a number of years) those bikes are pretty bad – they are more of a scooter – and something to use as a moped rather than a bike…
Now with the entry of the F-1 and Brompton designs
Given the amazing technology in terms of carbon fiber body elements and electric assist motors that were driving the overall power plant for the F-1 racing cars, I think this particular bike designs will be nothing but boring.
So now the combination of cool design, (although somewhat uncomfortable ride given the small wheels) and F-1 technology, I am very curious of the upcoming capabilities and would love to be able to test ride one very soon.